Why this road
The direct road from Killarney to Kenmare takes about half an hour. The Ring takes the whole peninsula instead: wide views over Dingle Bay, bog and mountains, the pass above Waterville looking out to the islands, and the sheltered, greener coast towards Sneem and Kenmare. It is busy in summer, but with an early start and a few side roads it is still one of the great coastal drives in Europe.
The route
- AKillarney
Leave Killarney west towards Killorglin, with the MacGillycuddy's Reeks on your left.
- 1Killorglin
A small town on the River Laune. After it the road reaches the coast and Dingle Bay opens up on your right.
- 2Cahersiveen
The main town of the western peninsula. The ruined Ballycarbery Castle is a few minutes outside.
- 3Waterville
A seaside village on a long beach between the lake and the sea. Just after it the road climbs to the Coomakesta pass.
- 4Sneem
A colourful village with two small squares. From here the road runs through woods along the Kenmare River.
- BKenmare
A pretty market town at the end of the bay, a good place to finish with dinner.
Stops worth it
Twenty minutes for the town and the short detour to Ballycarbery Castle. Portmagee and the Skellig Ring are nearby if you have time.
The viewpoint above Waterville, looking out over Ballinskelligs Bay and the islands. One of the best views of the whole Ring.
A walk on the beach and the promenade, with the famous Charlie Chaplin statue.
Light and the best time
Driving anti-clockwise, you head west along Dingle Bay in the morning with the sun behind you, so the bay and the Dingle mountains on your right are front-lit. After Waterville you turn east along the Kenmare River: in the afternoon the sun is in the south-west, on your right over the water, which makes the bay sparkle but backlights the views. A start at about 8 am suits the light and keeps you ahead of most buses.
May to September has the longest days and everything open. July and August are the busiest months. The road is open all year, but Atlantic weather changes fast: bring rain gear and be ready to wait for a view to clear.
By vehicle
The natural way to do it. Parts of the road are narrow, so give way and use the lay-bys when you meet buses.
Lovely on a dry day, but the weather changes quickly here. Keep the roof ready.
Sweeping coastal curves and little traffic in the early morning. Watch for gravel and sheep on the side roads.
Fine on the main Ring, which tour buses use every day. Avoid the narrow side roads like the Skellig Ring and Ballaghbeama Gap with a large camper.
Good to know
No tolls. Tour buses drive the Ring anti-clockwise, the same direction as this route, so start early or take your time behind them. Some stretches are narrow with stone walls, so use the lay-bys. There are fuel stations in Killarney, Killorglin, Cahersiveen, Waterville and Kenmare. Remember: Ireland drives on the left.
Route checked against OpenStreetMap on 2 November 2026. Roads, closures and rules change: always check before you go and follow local signs.
Questions
Which direction should I drive the Ring of Kerry?
Tour buses go anti-clockwise. You can follow them with an early start, or go clockwise to avoid being behind them, but then you meet them on narrow stretches.
How long does the Ring of Kerry take?
From Killarney to Kenmare about 2 to 2.5 hours without stops. With stops and a few detours, plan a full day.
Is the Ring of Kerry worth it?
Yes, if you have a clear day and leave early. In thick fog you see little, so watch the forecast and stay flexible.
Can I drive the Skellig Ring too?
Yes, it is a narrow loop near Portmagee, off the main Ring. Fine in a car, not suitable for large campers or buses.