Why this road
This is the only road north along this coast, so the scenic and the fast route are the same, and you would not want another. In two hours you pass some of the oldest rocks in Europe at Knockan Crag, the ruin of Ardvreck Castle on Loch Assynt, the sea lochs around Kylesku and a long, empty stretch of moor and lochans before the sea opens up again at Durness. Peaks like Stac Pollaidh, Suilven and Quinag stand alone on the horizon.
The route
- AUllapool
Leave the white fishing town north on the A835 along Loch Broom. Soon the hills of Coigach appear on your left.
- 1Knockan Crag
A geology trail on a cliff with views over the lonely peaks of Coigach and Assynt. The visitor area has parking and an easy path.
- 2Ardvreck Castle
Turn onto the A837 at Ledmore and follow Loch Assynt. The ruined castle stands on a little peninsula in the loch.
- 3Kylesku Bridge
Over the pass under Quinag, then down to the elegant curved bridge across the narrows of Loch a' Chàirn Bhàin.
- 4Scourie
A small village in a sandy bay. From here the road gets lonelier, with long single-track stretches through rock and lochans.
- BDurness
The village on the north coast, with Smoo Cave and white beaches like Sango Bay and Balnakeil.
Stops worth it
Twenty minutes on the short trail for the view over the Assynt mountains. The displays explain why geologists come from all over the world.
A short walk from the lay-by to the ruin on the shore of Loch Assynt.
Park at the viewpoint on the north side and look back at the bridge and the lochs.
Light and the best time
The road runs north, so in summer the sun is mostly behind you and the mountains and lochs ahead are lit from the front or side. Starting around 10 gives the morning time to burn off low cloud, and you reach the north coast in the afternoon, when the beaches at Durness face the light. Up here, summer days are very long and the evening light lasts for hours, so a later start also works. The weather changes quickly, and the best light often comes in short breaks between showers.
May to September is the season, with long days. May and June are often the driest months and have fewer midges; July and August are the busiest, with many campers on the road. The road is open all year, but in winter days are short, weather can be harsh and many places close.
By vehicle
The best choice for this road. Learn the passing-place routine before you go: pull in on your left, or wait opposite on your right, and let faster traffic pass.
A great ride on quiet roads, but the single-track sections need care: gravel, potholes, sheep and oncoming campers in blind corners.
Possible on this main route, but drive slowly, use passing places to let others overtake and never park in them. Avoid side roads like the B869 coast road, which is very narrow and steep.
Wonderful on a dry, bright day. Have the roof ready, showers come in fast from the sea.
Good to know
No tolls. Parts of the route are single-track with passing places: they are for passing, not for parking. Fuel up in Ullapool, stations are few and far between, and some keep short hours. Book accommodation early in summer. Midges can be fierce on calm summer evenings, bring repellent. Sheep and deer wander onto the road.
Route checked against OpenStreetMap on 2 November 2026. Roads, closures and rules change: always check before you go and follow local signs.
Questions
How long does it take from Ullapool to Durness?
About 1.5 to 2 hours of pure driving for roughly 110 km, often more on the single-track stretches. With stops, plan most of a day.
Is the North Coast 500 single-track?
Parts of it are, including stretches of this section. The road has passing places: pull in on your left, or wait opposite one on your right, and never park in them.
Should I take the B869 via Lochinver and Drumbeg?
In a small car with a confident driver, it is a beautiful detour along the coast. It is very narrow, steep and twisty, though, and not suitable for large campers, caravans or nervous drivers.
When is the best time to drive the North Coast 500?
May and June often have the best mix of long days, drier weather, fewer midges and less traffic. September is also good.