Picos de Europa: Panes through the Hermida gorge to Fuente Dé

The Picos de Europa rise only a short distance from the Cantabrian coast. This drive goes right into them: from Panes up the Desfiladero de la Hermida, a long, narrow gorge cut by the river Deva, past a thousand-year-old church to the stone town of Potes, then up the Liébana valley to Fuente Dé, where a wall of rock ends the road and a cable car climbs it.

CarMotorbikeConvertibleCamper van

Google Maps on phones takes 3 stops per link, so this route comes in 2 parts:

  1. 1. Panes → Espinama
  2. 2. Espinama → Fuente Dé
Distance54 km
Driving time59 minwithout stops
vs. fastest road+11 min
Best monthsMay – July, September – October
Openall year
Tollno
La HermidaSanta María de LebeñaPotesEspinama APanes BFuente Dé 10 km N

This routeFastest roadDownload GPX

The drive, minute by minute

Example: leaving at 09:00 on a day in July. Drag along the strip.

Why this road

This is the only road into the Liébana valley from the north, so scenic and fast are the same road, and it is a spectacular one. The gorge walls rise steeply on both sides, sometimes so close that the sun barely reaches the river. Then the valley opens up into meadows, chestnut woods and villages, and the limestone peaks grow ahead until they stand right above you at Fuente Dé.

The route

  1. A
    Panes

    Start in the little town at the mouth of the gorge. Follow the N-621 south along the river Deva.

  2. 1
    La Hermida

    A hamlet deep in the narrowest part of the gorge, squeezed between the river and the cliffs.

  3. 2
    Santa María de Lebeña

    A small Mozarabic church from the 10th century, just off the road, with the peaks rising behind it.

  4. 3
    Potes

    The capital of Liébana: stone houses, bridges over the river and a medieval tower in the middle. Lunch here.

  5. 4
    Espinama

    One of the last villages up the valley, with stone barns and meadows. The road climbs gently towards the cliffs.

  6. B
    Fuente Dé

    The end of the road, under a wall of rock. A cable car climbs to the top, where trails lead into the high mountains.

Stops worth it

Santa María de Lebeña

Twenty minutes for the little church with its horseshoe arches. Opening times vary, check locally.

Potes

An hour to wander the old town, cross the bridges and eat. On market days it gets very busy.

Light and the best time

The gorge is deep and runs roughly north to south, so the river at the bottom only gets sun around the middle of the day. Leave Panes around 9: the gorge is still cool and shaded, which is fine, but you reach Potes and the open valley in good morning light and get to Fuente Dé before noon. The Picos are known for clouds that roll in from the sea and build over the peaks during the day, so the morning gives you the best chance of seeing the tops, and of shorter queues at the cable car.

May, June, September and early October are best: green meadows, clear days and fewer visitors. July and August are busy, especially in Potes and at the cable car, with long waits on good days. The road is open all year, but snow is possible up the valley in winter. Weather changes fast here, low cloud can hide everything for days.

By vehicle

Car

An easy drive on a two-lane road, narrow and winding in the gorge. Take the curves calmly, trucks and buses use it too.

Motorbike

A great ride through the gorge and up the valley. Watch for wet patches in the shaded gorge and gravel in the corners.

Convertible

Lovely with the roof open in the valley. In the gorge it is shady and cool, even in summer.

Camper van

Fine on the N-621 and up to Fuente Dé, it is the main road into the valley. Parking in Potes is tight, use the car parks outside the centre.

Good to know

No toll. The road ends at Fuente Dé, so you come back the same way or leave over the mountain passes south of Potes. Fuel up in Panes or Potes. The cable car is popular in summer and may close in bad weather or fog, check Cantur before you go. Parking at Fuente Dé fills up on busy days, arrive early.

Route checked against OpenStreetMap on 2 November 2026. Roads, closures and rules change: always check before you go and follow local signs.

Questions

How long is the drive from Panes to Fuente Dé?

About 1 hour of pure driving for roughly 55 km. With stops at Lebeña and in Potes, plan half a day, plus time for the cable car.

What is the Desfiladero de la Hermida?

A long, narrow gorge of the river Deva between Panes and Potes, one of the longest in Spain. The N-621 runs through it, the main road into the Liébana valley.

Is the Fuente Dé cable car worth it?

On a clear day, yes: it lifts you up the cliff to a high plateau with views over the peaks and easy trails. On a cloudy day you may see nothing at the top, so check the weather and the webcams first.

Is the road to Fuente Dé a dead end?

Yes. You return to Potes the same way. From Potes you can carry on south over the mountain passes or back north through the gorge.

Your own trip, as beautiful as this one

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