Why this road
The fastest road is shorter, but it is town after town. This one gives you three different Balis in one afternoon: the green river gorge at Sayan, the moat and tiered shrines of Taman Ayun, and the open rice fields between Mengwi and the sea, where the farmers still work the water channels of the subak system. On a scooter you smell the frangipani and the wet fields, and you end with your feet in the sand.
The route
- AUbud
Leave Ubud to the west over the Campuhan bridge. The road climbs gently towards Sayan.
- 1Sayan
The road runs along the ridge above the Ayung river. Between the villas there are glimpses down into the jungle gorge.
- 2Taman Ayun Temple
The royal temple of Mengwi, part of Bali's UNESCO cultural landscape. Walk around the moat and the tall, tiered meru shrines.
- 3Pererenan
Quieter back roads through rice fields. Ride slowly, the lanes are narrow and the fields come right up to the tarmac.
- BCanggu
The coast. Park near the beach and watch the sun go down over the Indian Ocean.
Stops worth it
Half an hour is enough for the walk around the temple grounds. Shoulders and knees covered, sarongs are usually available at the entrance.
The beach at Pererenan is calmer than central Canggu and faces west, so it is a good place to watch the sunset.
Light and the best time
Ride in the late afternoon. You head south-west, so the sun is in front of you and, from May to August, a little to your right. In the last hour before sunset it backlights the rice so the fields glow, and the temple stones turn warm. Sunset on Bali is between about 6 and 6:45 pm all year, so leave Ubud around 3:30 pm and you reach the coast in the golden hour. Sunglasses help, the low sun is straight ahead on the last stretch.
April to October is the dry season and the best time. July, August and the European Christmas holidays are the busiest. From November to March it is the wet season: heavy showers, mostly in the afternoon and evening, and flooded lanes. Then ride in the morning instead. On Nyepi, the Balinese Day of Silence in March or April, the whole island stops for a day and nobody is allowed on the roads.
By vehicle
The classic way to do it, and the scooter slips through traffic that cars cannot. Only if you are an experienced rider: Bali traffic is dense, it drives on the left, and gravel and dogs appear without warning.
Most visitors hire a car with a driver, which is easy and not expensive. Some lanes near Pererenan are tight for cars, a driver will know the way.
Good to know
No tolls on this route. Traffic drives on the left. For a scooter you need a licence with a motorbike category plus an International Driving Permit, police checks on tourists are common and travel insurance usually does not pay without it. Helmets are compulsory. Fuel is easy to find, from stations to small roadside stalls. Temples and beaches often charge a small parking fee. Canggu is notorious for jams in the late afternoon, so plan extra time.
Route checked against OpenStreetMap on 2 November 2026. Roads, closures and rules change: always check before you go and follow local signs.
Questions
How long does it take from Ubud to Canggu by scooter?
About an hour on clear roads, according to the route planner. With Bali traffic it is often 1.5 to 2 hours, plus half an hour at Taman Ayun.
Can tourists rent a scooter in Bali?
Yes, but you need a licence that covers motorbikes and an International Driving Permit. Without them you risk a fine and your insurance may not cover an accident.
Is it worth visiting Bali in the rainy season?
Yes, the rice fields are at their greenest. Showers usually come in the afternoon, so plan rides for the morning and keep a rain poncho under the seat.
Where is the best sunset near Canggu?
Anywhere on the west-facing beaches, for example Pererenan, Echo Beach or Batu Bolong. Pererenan is usually the quietest.