Why this road
The direct road from Moustiers to Castellane stays away from the gorge for most of the way. The Route des Crêtes goes right to the edge: one viewpoint after another, many with a low wall and nothing below it. Griffon vultures circle at eye level, and at Point Sublime you look straight into the narrowest part of the canyon before the road winds down to Castellane.
The route
- AMoustiers-Sainte-Marie
Start in the faience village under its cliffs, with a star hanging on a chain high above the chapel.
- 1La Palud-sur-Verdon
The only village on the north rim, and the start of the Route des Crêtes loop. Follow the signs, part of the loop is one-way.
- 2Belvédère de l'Escalès
The best-known viewpoint on the loop, with vertical cliffs and climbers on the wall below you.
- 3Chalet de la Maline
The road runs down to a mountain hut, the start of the famous Blanc-Martel trail, before climbing back to La Palud.
- 4Point Sublime
Park by the road and walk a few minutes to the viewpoint over the entrance of the gorge.
- BCastellane
A lively little town at the end of the gorge, with the chapel of Notre-Dame du Roc on a rock high above it.
Stops worth it
Twenty minutes at the wall. Look for vultures riding the updraft and for kayaks far down on the river.
A short walk from the car park to the classic view into the canyon. The trail down to the river starts nearby.
Light and the best time
The gorge runs roughly east to west and the Route des Crêtes is on the north rim, so you look south into the canyon. The water at the bottom only turns bright turquoise when the sun is high, from late morning to early afternoon. Early and late in the day the gorge is deep in shadow. Starting around 9 am gets you there before the heat and the midday traffic, with the best light on the loop.
May, June, September and early October are ideal. July and August are hot and busy, with queues at the viewpoints. The Route des Crêtes is usually closed in winter, roughly from late November to late March, check before you go. The main roads stay open, but snow and ice are possible.
By vehicle
One of the great rides of Provence: tight bends, empty stretches in the morning and a view at every stop.
Wonderful with the roof down, but the sun is strong here, and some viewpoints are in full sun with no shade.
No problem for a car. The Route des Crêtes is narrow with drops and low walls, so go slowly and stop only in the marked lay-bys.
Good to know
No toll. The Route des Crêtes is narrow and partly one-way, large campers and caravans are better off staying on the main road. There are few petrol stations around the gorge, fill up before you come in. Parking at the viewpoints is limited, so use the marked lay-bys only. Falling rocks are possible, do not stop under overhangs.
Route checked against OpenStreetMap on 2 November 2026. Roads, closures and rules change: always check before you go and follow local signs.
Questions
Is the Route des Crêtes open all year?
No. It is usually closed in winter, roughly from late November to late March. Check the current status before you go.
How long does the drive from Moustiers to Castellane take?
About 1 h 30 of driving with the Route des Crêtes loop, roughly half an hour more than the direct road. With viewpoints and a walk, plan most of a day.
Is the Route des Crêtes one-way?
Part of it is: the one-way section is driven clockwise. Follow the signs from La Palud.
Which side of the Verdon Gorge is best?
The north side with the Route des Crêtes has the most viewpoints. The Corniche Sublime on the south side is also beautiful and a good choice for a second day.